A Giant Monolith and a Deserted Village

We decided to visit the deserted medieval village of Wharram Percy on our journey home. We'd highlighted three places on the map that we would like to visit on our journey in and out to the Yorkshire coast. They were the Norman Manor House at Burton Agnes, featured in a previous post, the Giant Monolith at Rudston and Wharram Percy.  We'd visited the Norman Manor House so there were just the other two to tick off the list.  We packed our bags and loaded the car for the journey home before having a last walk along the beach and through the town. 


 

It was a very misty, murky day and visibility wasn't great but we decided to head out towards to the village of Rudston and then on to the deserted village anyway.

The monolith stands in the churchyard in the village of Rudston and at 25ft high is apparently the tallest monolith in the UK.Apparently it is capped in lead because at some point the top piece broke off - it used to be 28ft high.

 In the 18th century Sir William Strickland carried out extensive experiments which concluded that there was just as much of the stone underground as there is above ground. This doesn't ring true somehow but many skulls were found during excavations and imprints of dinosaur feet on the megalith would suggest that it was always a site of great ceremonial importance and of worship - hence the church being built on the site in the 12th century.

Then it was on to find the deserted medieval village of Wharram Percy.  I'd heard about this place over the years but had never visited.  It was still very damp and murky as we set out along the path towards the site.  The walk is about three quarters of a mile and not too bad underfoot although there are slippy slopes in places.  It passes over the Wolds Way about two thirds of the way along.

As we crossed a small stile and bridge and walked towards the sign above many walkers and dog walkers were using the Wolds Way path.

As you approach the village  you can see the lumps and bumps in the ground up the bank side.  Unfortunately a farmer was re-seeding the land up above for cattle feed so we couldn't go up and look down on the scene.  The photo above shows the remains 18th century 'improvement' farm built by landowner Sir Charles Buck.

  A few stone and brick cottages were built for the farm workers and the outlines of the remains of both the cottages and farm house can be seen alongside the remaining building which is the former byre and feed store.  These were turned into small cottages to house the archaeologists who worked on the extensive excavations of the medieval village which took place over 40 years from 1950 to 1990. 

The drawing above shows what the village may have looked like in the 13th century.  Contrary to general belief it wasn't the Black Death which wiped out the village although there were considerable population losses at that time.  The village survived until the late 15th century when much of the area was converted to sheep pasture.  The final four families were evicted during the years 1488 to 1508.  

The church of St Martin's was rebuilt in the 12th century, enlarged during the 13th and 14h centuries and then reduced in size during the late15th, early 16th century when the village was deserted. 

 The church continued to be used as a parish church by neighbouring villages.  The gravestones in the churchyard date from the 18th and 19th centuries.

The mist was rolling and the rain was settling in so after we'd had a look inside the ruined church we turned back along the path back to the car park.  I think I would like to visit again one day preferably on a guided visit so I can learn more and interpret what can be seen more easily because it is such a fascinating place.

 Wharram Percy is on of the most intensely researched deserted villages in England in one of the most tranquil of places.  It is hard to remember that this was once a busy and thriving community.  It was easy to imagine that amongst the sounds of the birdsong, the farmer's tractor and the planes passing overhead I could hear the distant echoes of people as they went about their daily lives here.

Burton Agnes Hall - Part Two

It was a quiet afternoon when we visited Burton Agnes Hall.  For ages we were the only visitors walking around.   

It was so quiet and peaceful and the people on duty as guides were very friendly and helpful. 

Many rooms were devoid of visitors and guides so we had most of the hall completely to ourselves which was wonderful.

 Some of the passageways and stairways

were quite dark

whilst most the rooms were light and airy both making it difficult to take decent photos but it was good that we were allowed to take photos inside.

The hall was built between 1598 and 1610 by Sir Henry Griffith.  The architect was Robert Smythson who also designed such famous houses as Longleat in Wiltshire, Hardwick Hall in Derbyshire , Wollaton Hall in Nottinghamshire and Doddington Hall in Lincolnshire.

Above is the blue bedroom or Queen's bedroom.  It is said to be a haunted room.  I must admit I didn't sense anything about it.   Here is a - link - to the story of the ghost.  It is quite a sad but strange story.

Above is the long gallery - filled with work by many modern artists and designers including John Makepeace and Kaffe Fassett.

The afternoon was drawing to a close but we just had time to look around the walled garden 

and the wonderful sensory and colour gardens.  The woodland walk will have to wait for another time.

Below are some more of the beautiful things that caught my eye in the Hall....... 

......and in the gardens.

Burton Agnes Hall - Part One

Behind this 17th century red brick facade is a most fascinating building

Through the green door and you are in the lower chamber of a building that is much older.  This early manor house was built in 1173 by Roger de Stuteville not a lot remains from that time but certainly most of the ground floor is from that period.  Apparently Roger de Stuteville had a daughter called Agnes and it is thought that this is where the name Burton Agnes came from.

Up the stairs in the far corner of the lower chamber taking great care on their uneven surface whilst wondering what would lie at the top

It was certainly one of those 'wow' moments!

The upper floor has been altered many times over the centuries but it is believed to have been the main hall of residence used by Sir Walter Griffith and therefore mid-fifteenth century in origin.  It is believed that the roof dates from then.

This building was encased in brick during the seventeenth century when the 'new' hall was built next door.  The earlier building was used as a laundry for the larger house and an extra floor was added hence the higher row of windows. 

Behind the old hall is a waterwheel which was worked by a donkey to draw water from a well.

It was time for tea and cake in the lovely cafe - I didn't take a photo but the blueberry and lime cake was delicious.

Fully refreshed we were ready to visit the 'new' hall and gardens.

To be continued in part two.

The Year in Books - May

Joining with Laura at A Circle of Pines for this month's The Year in Books

Well, of course as the saying goes 'the best laid plans of mice and men' does apply to my reading this month.  The books I highlighted as waiting to be read in my April post are still unread because a book I had been waiting for  arrived at the library so I've been reading Balancing Act by Joanna Trollope.

Balancing Act is set here, in the Potteries and is the story of a family business going through the motions of change, it is about a woman's place in the home, in the family and in the workplace. It is also about mens' places in the life of the family too. Susie Moran started the Susie Sullivan Pottery when she was in her twenties and built up her empire despite all the pressures on her.  Now the business needs to change to survive in today's exacting market place and her three daughters Cara, Ashley and Grace are wanting more power within the company.  Grace is a designer in the factory in Hanley in Stoke-on-Trent and the other two daughters are based in London at the firm's main offices.  Jasper Moran, Susie's husband is a jazz musician who was happy to stay at home to look after the girls as Susie built up her company.  Now he wants to return to the music he loves.  Susie's father, Morris who left her as a small child  to be brought up by her grandparents returns from Africa.  How will Susie cope with all these changes?  Will business or family take over.  Can she really have both?

I loved reading this book not least because it is mostly set locally to me but also for the way it is written, for the sympathetic depiction of family life and the sincerity of her characters.

I've also been reading the two books on Mow Cop by Philip R Leese.  The photo on the top one inspired me to write a story which I sent to a friend who does creative writing to read.  He has written another story set about 40 years later using my original characters and creating some more and now I'm going to 'move it on' again into the 1960s. Another family saga is emerging!  It is a great way to get the creative juices flowing again as it is about 5 years since I last did any fiction writing.

So for May I still have the books I mentioned in my April post to read if I get around to them.  Yesterday I started to read a book I bought from a second hand book shop on holiday.  

So far I'm enjoying this crime novel set in Edinburgh a city I've visited only once - I'd love to return one day.

Back Home

Phew!  I'm back!  You probably hadn't even noticed I'd gone! 

We've walked here and there - it feels like we've walked everywhere!

 

We've seen lots of wonderful places.....

....and things of great beauty  but best of all......

.......we've seen the sea!

I'll be back with more photos and stories later and I'll be visiting all of your blogs too as soon as I've caught up with what has been happening here whilst we've been away.  See you soon.

The Old Man of Mow

The Old Man of Mow can be found beside the path of the Gritstone Trail almost at the summit of the hill in the village of Mow Cop. 

The Gritstone Trail is a long distance walk of 15 kilometres (9.3miles) which starts at Timbersbrook near Congleton in Cheshire and finishes at Kidsgrove in Staffordshire. The route passes many historical landmarks and features of the area's industrial past including ancient paths, Roman roads, canals and railways. On its way from Cheshire into Staffordshire it takes in Lyme Park, Sponds Hill, Tegg's Nose Country Park, Croker Hill and Mow Cop, it ends at Kidsgove Station which is close to the Harecastle Tunnel on the Trent and Mersey Canal.

The Old Man of Mow is a 20 foot pillar of gritstone which was left standing after the stone around it had been quarried away.

Another stunning feature along the gritstone trail and also at Mow Cop is, of course, the folly known locally as the castle, which was built by Squire Wilbraham of nearby Rhode Hall.  I've featured this ruin on a couple of previous blog posts so I hope you don't mind me including it again.  According to Arthur Mee's entry in The King's England for Staffordshire - Mow Cop "It's splendid hill, nearly 1100 feet above sea level, with magnificent views far in Wales, belongs to us all, for it has been given to the National Trust.  It is marred by a mock ruin of the 18th century...."

What do you think? Is the hill's outcrop marred or enhanced by the folly?  It can be seen for miles around and is such a recognisable landmark.

 Mow Cop is also known as the birthplace of Primitive Methodism.  The present church built in 1862 is on the site of the first open air meeting, organised by Hugh Bourne,  which took place on 31st May 1807 when 2000 people from as far away as Macclesfield and Warrington attended.  The meeting lasted for 14 hours.  Here is a link to more information.

There are several wells around the village including the Squire's Well and the Parson's Well.  These were built almost as shrines to celebrate and give thanks for the abundance of fresh water and in the past, although no longer,  well dressings took place here as they still do in many Derbyshire towns and villages.  I saw three of these wells as we were walking around the village but apparently there are more to be found.

A Walk in the Manifold Valley

On a beautifully sunny morning last week we decided to take a walk in the Manifold Valley.  It seems ages since we were last there.  We parked as usual near Wetton Mill and set out on the stretch of the walk which goes towards Thor's Cave - following the path which was once the old railway line that brought ramblers and tourists into the valley.

It wasn't too busy at the mill as it was quite early in the day

We walked along the path until we could see Thor's Cave in the distance.

We could hear and see Peregrine Falcons on the ridge opposite the cave as we walked.  There were also Buzzards whirling overhead too and the shrill call of pheasants.

There were lots of lovely wildflowers in the meadows and woodlands and on the river banks.

We spotted Wood Anemones, Celandine, Dog's Mercury and Butterbur.

When we reached the bridge to the woodland walk up to Thor's Cave we doubled back and went into Wetton Hills.

We walked quite a way up into the hills before doubling back yet again
to join the circular route back to the Mill.

From the hills behind the mill you can see the first route we took out towards Thor's Cave

 And the Mill itself, down in the valley....

glimpsed through the woodsmoke and trees. 

After our walk we drove into the village of Hartington where we visited the Cheese Shop and were tempted to try some unusual cheeses.  A Bowland, a Sage Derby and an Organic Staffordshire with Wild Garlic.